Cabinet Construction Guide for Building Custom Cabinets
How to Build Your Own Custom Cabinets and Save Thousands!
Building custom cabinets as a DIY project can be both rewarding and cost-effective, but its profitability and ease depend on your skill level, tools, and available time. Here's a breakdown of factors to consider:
Cost Savings
- DIY cabinet building can save significant money compared to purchasing pre-made or custom cabinets. Materials like plywood, hardwood, and hardware (hinges, handles, etc.) are typically cheaper when sourced directly, especially if you have access to wholesale suppliers.
- Example Savings: Custom kitchen cabinets can cost $10,000–$25,000 or more from a professional, while DIYing the same might cost $3,000–$5,000, depending on materials.
Required Skills and Tools
- Skills: You'll need basic woodworking skills, an understanding of cabinet design, and familiarity with tools. Advanced skills may be required for intricate designs or high-end finishes.
- Tools: Essential tools include a table saw, circular saw (use a track saw if possible), drill, clamps, router, measuring tools, and a cut list. Tools like a pocket-hole jig, a miter saw, and a sander are recommended.
- Investing in good tools may be expensive upfront, but they can pay off if you plan to tackle multiple projects.
Time Commitment
- Building cabinets requires time and careful planning, but staying organized and creating precise cutting lists can make the process smoother. Completing a single cabinet typically involves cutting, assembling, sanding, and finishing, which can take several hours. For larger projects, such as outfitting an entire kitchen, the timeline may extend to weeks or even months, depending on your availability and schedule.
Quality Control
- As a DIYer, you have full control over the materials, design, and craftsmanship. This allows you to create durable, high-quality customized pieces that suit your space perfectly. .
Profitability for Selling Custom Cabinets
If you're considering building cabinets for sale, profitability depends on:
- Market Demand: High in areas with limited access to custom cabinetry or for niche designs (e.g., rustic, modern, or minimalist styles).
- Material Costs: Using high-quality yet affordable materials increases margins.
- Efficiency: Once you refine your process, you can produce cabinets faster, reducing labor time.
- Pricing: Research competitors and calculate pricing based on materials, labor, and profit margins.
Specific Applications
- Kitchen and Bathroom Cabinets: High effort but great for savings. Precise measurements and durable materials are critical.
- Built-in Cabinets and Bookcases: Easier to customize and install since they don't always require doors or intricate hardware.
- Storage Cabinets and Closet Organizers: Simpler designs make these projects beginner-friendly and cost-effective.
Tips for Success
- Start small with a few simple cabinets to practice skills.
- Use design software or tools like CabinetCRUNCHER to plan measurements and layouts accurately.
- Watch tutorials or take woodworking classes to improve techniques.
- Focus on finishing—high-quality stains, paints, and hardware can elevate the look of your cabinets.
Conclusion - For personal use, DIY cabinet building is an excellent way to save money and get exactly what you want. As a business, it can be profitable, especially if you specialize in custom designs and streamline your production process. However, it requires dedication, skill development and time investment to ensure high-quality results.
Face Frame Cabinet Construction and Design Considerations
What is a Face Frame Cabinet?
A face frame cabinet is a type of cabinet construction commonly used in woodworking, particularly in kitchen and bathroom cabinetry. The defining feature of a face frame cabinet is the frame that is attached to the front of the cabinet box, which surrounds and supports the doors and drawers. This frame is typically made of solid wood and adds both strength and a finished appearance to the cabinet. Here's a more detailed look at the key elements of a face frame cabinet:
Face Frame
- The face frame is a rectangular frame that is mounted to the front of the cabinet box. It is usually constructed from solid wood, such as maple, oak, or plywood, and is designed to provide structural support for the cabinet and its components.
- The face frame is typically made up of stiles (vertical pieces) and rails (horizontal pieces), which are connected using various joinery techniques, such as mortise and tenon, dovetails, or butt joints.
Doors and Drawers
- The doors and drawers of a face frame cabinet are framed within the boundaries of the face frame. The frame acts as the foundation for these components, helping to align and secure them in place.
- The frame provides a surface where cabinet hinges (e.g., blum hinges) can be mounted to allow the doors to open and close smoothly.
Cabinet Box
- The cabinet box is the internal structure of the cabinet that holds the shelves, drawers, and the back panel. In a face frame cabinet, the box is constructed separately and then the face frame is attached to the front, covering the edges and providing a finished look.
- The cabinet box is typically made of plywood or MDF (medium-density fiberboard) and is usually assembled with pocket holes, biscuits, screws, nails, or dowels.
Overlays and Reveals
- In face frame cabinets, doors are usually mounted overlays the frame (full overlay, partial overlay, or inset). In a full overlay cabinet, the doors cover most of the frame, leaving little to no visible frame around the edges of the doors. In inset face frame cabinets, the doors are set inside the frame, creating a flush look.
- The reveal refers to the small gap between the face frame and the door or drawer front, which can be adjusted based on the desired aesthetic.
Benefits of Face Frame Cabinets
- Strength: The face frame provides additional structural strength, helping to support the weight of the cabinet and its contents.
- Traditional Appearance: Face frame cabinets offer a classic, traditional look that works well in various styles, particularly in kitchens and bathrooms.
- Durability: The solid wood face frame provides added durability and can help protect the cabinet box from damage.
- Customization: The face frame can be easily customized to accommodate various design features such as decorative moldings, or to fit specific hardware like blum hinges.
Common Uses
- Face frame cabinets are popular in traditional or Shaker-style cabinetry, where the visible frame adds a crafted, timeless aesthetic. They are commonly used in kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, and other types of built-in cabinetry.
In summary, a face frame cabinet is a construction style where a solid wood frame is securely attached to the front of the cabinet box. This frame not only provides structural integrity but also serves as the mounting point for doors and drawers, enhancing both functionality and the overall aesthetic appeal of the cabinet. CabinetCRUNCHER simplifies this process by offering precise design tools and calculations, making it easier to plan, build, and assemble face frame cabinets with accuracy and efficiency. Whether you're designing custom sizes, choosing joinery methods, or calculating material requirements, CabinetCRUNCHER ensures your face frame construction is streamlined and accurate every time.
Frameless Cabinet Construction and Design Considerations
What is a Frameless Cabinet?
A frameless cabinet, also known as a European-style cabinet, is a type of cabinetry that does not have a face frame on the front of the cabinet box. Instead, the doors and drawers are attached directly to the cabinet sides, creating a sleek, modern appearance with clean lines. Here's a breakdown of its key features:
Key Characteristics of Frameless Cabinets
- No Face Frame: Unlike framed cabinets, which have a wooden frame around the front opening, frameless cabinets rely on a thicker cabinet box for stability.
- Full Access Design: Often referred to as "full-access" cabinets because the absence of a face frame allows for greater access to the interior space.
- Concealed Hinges: Frameless cabinets typically use concealed European-style hinges, which enhance the streamlined look.
- Overlay Doors: The doors cover the entire front edge of the cabinet box, offering a seamless appearance when closed.
- Modern Aesthetic: Popular in contemporary and minimalist designs due to their smooth, unbroken exterior.
Advantages of Frameless Cabinets
- Maximized Storage Space: Without a face frame, there’s more usable space inside the cabinet.
- Sleek Appearance: Ideal for modern or European-inspired kitchens and bathrooms.
- Easy Accessibility: Larger openings make it easier to reach items inside.
- Versatility: Can accommodate various door styles and configurations.
Disadvantages of Frameless Cabinets
- Reduced Rigidity: Without the face frame, the cabinet box itself must be well-constructed to ensure stability.
- Precision Required: Installation and alignment of doors and drawers require careful precision to maintain the clean lines.
- Limited Design Styles: Less suited for traditional or ornate designs that benefit from the detailing of a face frame.
Pocket Hole Joinery Construction for Building Cabinets
Benefits of Pocket Hole Joinery for Easy Cabinet Construction
Pocket hole joinery has become a popular and efficient technique in cabinet construction guide, offering several advantages for professionals and DIY enthusiasts alike. Here are some of its key benefits:
- Strong and Durable Connections:
Pocket hole joinery creates tight, secure joints that are strong enough to handle the weight and stress typical in cabinets. The angled screws pull the wood pieces together tightly, enhancing structural integrity. - Ease of Use:
The simplicity of the process makes pocket hole joinery ideal for both beginners and seasoned woodworkers. With minimal tools—a pocket hole jig, drill, and screws—you can achieve professional-quality joints. - Fast Assembly:
Compared to traditional joinery methods like mortise and tenon or dovetails, pocket hole joinery is significantly quicker to execute, speeding up cabinet construction without compromising quality. - Concealed Joints:
Pocket holes are typically hidden on the inside or back of the cabinet, ensuring a clean and polished exterior without visible screws or fasteners. - Versatility:
Pocket hole joinery works well with various materials, including plywood, MDF, and solid wood, making it versatile for different cabinet styles and applications. - Minimal Clamping Required:
Since the screws act as clamps during the assembly, there’s often no need for additional clamps, reducing the tools and space required for the process. - Cost-Effective:
Pocket hole joinery eliminates the need for expensive tools or materials, making it a budget-friendly option for cabinet construction projects. - Repair-Friendly:
Cabinets built with pocket hole joinery are easier to disassemble and repair if needed, as the screws can be removed and replaced without damaging the wood.
This method combines efficiency, strength, and aesthetic appeal, making it a go-to choice for modern cabinet construction.
Advantages of Dado Joinery for Cabinet Construction
CabinetCRUNCHER: Discover the Benefits of Dado Joinery for High-Quality Cabinet Construction
Dado joinery is a time-tested technique commonly used in cabinet construction, valued for its strength and precision. Below are the key benefits of incorporating dado joints into your cabinet projects:
- Enhanced Strength and Stability:
Dado joints provide exceptional structural support by allowing one piece of wood to fit snugly into a groove in another. This design evenly distributes weight and resists shear forces, making it ideal for supporting heavy loads such as shelves or cabinet components. - Improved Alignment:
The precise groove of a dado joint helps align wood pieces accurately during assembly, ensuring square and professional-looking cabinets. This reduces the margin for error and increases overall build quality. - Long-Lasting Durability:
Dado joinery creates a larger surface area for adhesives, resulting in a stronger bond between the joined pieces. This durability makes cabinets more resistant to wear and tear over time. - Clean and Seamless Appearance:
Dado joints are often concealed within the structure, providing a sleek and polished look without visible screws, nails, or fasteners. This makes it especially appealing for high-end or custom cabinetry. - Versatility in Material and Application:
Dado joints work well with a variety of materials, including plywood, MDF, and solid wood, and are suitable for different cabinet components, such as shelving, dividers, and backs. - Efficient Use of Space:
By embedding one piece into another, dado joinery reduces the need for additional bracing or bulky fasteners, allowing for more streamlined and space-efficient cabinet designs. - Strong Mechanical Connection Without Fasteners:
Unlike pocket hole or butt joints, dado joinery relies on the mechanical fit of the groove, reducing dependency on screws or nails. This makes the joints naturally stronger even with minimal hardware. - Timeless Craftsmanship Appeal:
Dado joinery is a hallmark of traditional woodworking, adding a touch of craftsmanship and quality to cabinet projects. Its use reflects attention to detail and a commitment to robust construction.
By combining strength, precision, and aesthetic value, dado joinery remains a preferred method for crafting durable and professional-grade cabinets.
Building a Cabinet Face Frame
Best Methods for Building a Cabinet Face Frame
The best method for building a cabinet face frame depends on the tools, materials, and skills available, but the following steps outline a widely used, efficient approach:
Plan and Measure
- Accurate Dimensions: Using a precise cut list when building a face frame is essential. Use CabinetCRUNCHER as a cabinet cut list calculator to ensure that all stiles and rails are engineered to the exact dimensions needed, which is critical for achieving a tight, professional fit.
- Material Selection: Choose a hardwood like poplar, maple, cherry or oak for durability and aesthetic finish.
- Design Details: Decide on the stile and rail widths (typically 1.5 to 2 inches) and any additional center stiles or rails for support.
Cut Components
- Cut stiles (vertical pieces) and rails (horizontal pieces) to the required dimensions.
- Ensure precision by using a table saw or miter saw for straight, clean cuts.
Joinery
- Pocket Hole Joinery (Most Common for DIY and Professionals):
- Drill pocket holes at the ends of rails using a pocket hole jig (e.g., Kreg Jig).
- Align and clamp the stiles and rails, then secure them with pocket screws and wood glue.
- Mortise and Tenon (Traditional Method for Durability):
- Cut mortises (holes) into stiles and tenons (tabs) on the ends of rails.
- Fit tenons into mortises, apply glue, and clamp until dry.
- Biscuits or Dowels (Alternatives for Hidden Joints):
- Use a biscuit joiner or dowel jig for alignment and reinforcement.
Dry Fit
- Assemble the frame without glue to ensure all parts align perfectly.
- Adjust as necessary for a tight, square fit.
Glue and Assemble
- Apply wood glue to all joints.
- Clamp the frame tightly, ensuring it remains square (check diagonals with a tape measure).
Sand and Finish
- Sand the face frame thoroughly to smooth edges and surfaces.
- Apply wood filler to fill gaps or imperfections, if needed.
- Stain, paint, or seal the frame to match the desired finish.
Attach to Cabinet Box
- Align the face frame to the cabinet box.
- Secure it using glue and screws or nails, ensuring all edges are flush.
Tools and Materials Needed:
- Tools: Table saw, miter saw, drill, pocket hole jig, clamps, sander, measuring tape.
- Materials: Hardwood boards, wood glue, screws (or nails), sandpaper, finish (stain or paint).
Best Practices:
- Use clamps liberally to keep pieces tight and square during assembly.
- Sand all surfaces before assembly for a cleaner final product.
- Invest in high-quality joinery tools for precision and durability.
For professionals or those working on custom cabinetry, advanced joinery like mortise and tenon may provide added durability, while pocket hole joinery is excellent for quicker builds.
Why CabinetCRUNCHER Is Essential for Building a Cabinet Face Frame
If you’re looking to streamline your cabinet-making process, CabinetCRUNCHER software is an invaluable tool for crafting precise and professional cabinet face frames. Here’s why CabinetCRUNCHER stands out as a must-have for woodworkers:
Customizable Design Options
- CabinetCRUNCHER allows you to tailor every aspect of your face frame, from stile and rail dimensions to joinery preferences like dados and rabbets. These customization features ensure your face frame fits seamlessly with your cabinet design, whether you're creating inset or overlay styles.
Accurate Cutlists
- Forget manual calculations. CabinetCRUNCHER generates precise cutlists based on your settings, saving time and eliminating costly mistakes. This level of accuracy minimizes material waste and helps you stay on schedule and budget.
Efficiency and Time-Saving
- By automating the design process, CabinetCRUNCHER accelerates project planning, allowing you to focus more on building. Its intuitive user-interface simplifies construction calculations, making it valuable for both beginners and professionals.
Reduced Errors
- The software reduces the risk of miscalculations by guiding you through essential measurements, such as face frame overlaps, dado depths, and tenon lengths. This ensures a perfect fit and professional finish every time.
Versatile Cabinet Styles
- CabinetCRUNCHER is not just for face frames. It accommodates various cabinet designs, including frameless and built-in styles, making it a versatile tool for all your woodworking projects.
Professional-Grade Results
- Whether you’re building cabinets for your home or clients, CabinetCRUNCHER helps you achieve professional-quality results. Its precision and customization options align with industry standards, ensuring a polished, high-end look.
Perfect for Modern and Traditional Joinery
- CabinetCRUNCHER integrates seamlessly with popular joinery methods, including pocket hole joinery for quick builds and mortise-and-tenon for traditional durability. This flexibility makes it a go-to solution for any woodworking style.
Conclusion
CabinetCRUNCHER is a productivity game-changer for anyone building a custom cabinets. Its cost value and ability to quickly deliver accurate cut lists, reduce errors, and enhance efficiency makes it an essential tool for building high-quality and visually stunning cabinets. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or a seasoned professional, CabinetCRUNCHER ensures every project is completed with precision and ease.
Flexible Cabinet Bases and Back Panel Options
Design and Build Custom Cabinet Bases with Ease Using CabinetCRUNCHER
CabinetCRUNCHER offers a wide range of options for installing cabinet bases, providing flexibility to suit various needs. Both Face Frame and Frameless cabinet styles support the following base configurations:
No Base
- The side panels extend the full height of the cabinet, serving as the support structure.
- The cabinet rests directly on these side panels.
- A kick plate can be added to the front at any specified height and depth.
Attached Pedestal Base
- A box-style pedestal base is attached to the cabinet’s bottom panel.
- The height and depth of the pedestal’s kick space can be customized.
- The front and side kick-space depths can be adjusted independently.
Detached Pedestal Base
- Also known as a "Ladder Base," this option allows for a separate box-style pedestal base to be custom fabricated and installed during cabinet setup.
- Commonly used for multiple cabinets sharing a single base, such as a row of kitchen cabinets along one wall.
Adjustable Legs
- Adjustable legs or custom feet are mounted beneath the cabinet’s bottom panel.
- This option provides additional flexibility for leveling and height adjustments.
Extended Side Panels (No Base)
The cabinet rests on the side panels which extend below the bottom panel 4-5 inches to accommodate the height of a toe-kick in the front of the cabinet. This method is best for free-standing cabinets or bookcases. This method typically results in more plywood waste. For example, if you build a cabinet 36 inches tall, you would only be able to get two 36 inch side panels on each strip of standard sized plywood. But if you install the cabinet using a pedestal base or ladder base, then you could get three side panels on each ripped length of plywood because the side panels would normally be less than 32 inches high. A kick plate can be added at any specified height and depth.
Flush Mounted Back Panel
- Back Panel is butted flush to the back of Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher. Edge of Back Panel is visible from sides & top of cabinet. View Animation
- Back Panel is butted flush to the back of Side Panels and extends FULL HEIGHT (flush with top and bottom of Side Panels). View Animation
Dado Back Panel
- Side Panels and Bottom Panel are dadoed to accept the Back Panel. Back Panel slides in from the top. View Animation
- Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel (or stretcher) are dadoed to accept the Back Panel. View Animation
- Side Panels are dadoed to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher). View Animation
- Side Panels are dadoed to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with top and bottom of Side Panels). View Animation
Rabbet Back Panel
- Side Panels and Bottom Panel are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel. Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel (or stretcher) are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel. Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher). Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with top and bottom of Side Panels). Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
Pedestal Base
A pedestal base is a separate assembly that is mounted under the bottom panel of the cabinet. The pedestal base can be sized for toe-kick clearance on the front, sides and/or back of the cabinet.
Flush Mounted Back Panel
- Back Panel is butted flush to the back of Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher. Edge of Back Panel is visible from sides & top of cabinet. View Animation
Dado Back Panel
- Side Panels and Bottom Panel are dadoed to accept the Back Panel. Back Panel slides in from top. View Animation
- Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher are dadoed to accept the Back Panel.
- Side Panels are dadoed to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher). View Animation
Rabbet Back Panel
- Side Panels and Bottom Panel are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel. Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel. Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher). Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
Ladder Base
A ladder base is similar to a pedestal base except it is typically built in the field and is designed to accommodate several cabinets. This method is best for installing kitchen cabinets. The cabinet installation is very easy once the ladder base is level and secured to the floor.
Flush Mounted Back Panel
- Back Panel is butted flush to the back of Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher. Edge of Back Panel is visible from sides & top of cabinet. View Animation
Dado Back Panel
- Side Panels and Bottom Panel are dadoed to accept the Back Panel. Back Panel slides in from top. Typically used in a kitchen with other cabinets sharing a common base. View Animation
- Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher are dadoed to accept the Back Panel. View Animation
- Side Panels are dadoed to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher). View Animation
Rabbet Back Panel
- Side Panels and Bottom Panel are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel. Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel. Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher). Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
Adjustable Legs or Casters
Adjustable legs, fixed length legs or casters may be used for cabinets that require mobility or height adjustment during installation.
Flush Mounted Back Panel
- Back Panel is butted flush to the back of Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher. Edge of Back Panel is visible from sides & top of cabinet. View Animation
Dado Back Panel
- Side Panels and Bottom Panel are dadoed to accept the Back Panel. Back Panel slides in from top. View Animation
- Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher are dadoed to accept the Back Panel. View Animation
- Side Panels are dadoed to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher). View Animation
Rabbet Back Panel
- Side Panels and Bottom Panel are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel. Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels, Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel. Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
- Side Panels are rabbetted to accept the Back Panel (Back Panel is flush with Bottom Panel and Top Panel/Stretcher). Left and/or Right Side Panels can be rabbetted independently. View Animation
How to Build Cabinet Shelving (Fixed and Removable Shelves)
Removable Shelves
- If removable shelves are installed, enter the amount of clearance space for the shelves between the side panels. Refer to Cell N51 (Cell N49 Frameless)
Lateral Clearance Adjustment for Removable Shelves
- Enter the desired depth of the kick-space on the left side of the cabinet. This is the distance from the outer surface of the left side panel to the pedestal base. Refer to Cell N46 (Cell N42 Frameless)
Fixed Shelves (Butted to Cabinet Panels)
- Select BUTTED TO SIDE PANELS if you want the shelf to be butted to the side panels. Refer to Cell L50 (Cell L48 Frameless)
Fixed Shelves (Dado to Cabinet Panels)
- Select DADO SIDE PANELS if you want the shelf to fit into dados that are cut into the side panels. Use the "Set-Up Values" to specify the dado depth. Refer to Cell L50 (Cell L48 Frameless)
Shelving Setback from Face Frame
- This setting enables you to adjust the finished depth of the shelf. Enter the amount of desired clearance space between the front face of the finished shelf (with trim material installed) to the inside surface of face frame. Refer to Cell N52 (Cell N50 Frameless)
Shelving Trim
- This setting enables you to adjust the finished depth of the shelf. Enter the amount of desired clearance space between the front face of the finished shelf (with trim material installed) to the inside surface of face frame. Refer to Cell N52 (Cell N50 Frameless)
Width of Shelving Trim
Width of Shelving Trim
Width of Shelving Trim
- If fixed or removable shelves are installed, use this line to specify the width of the trim material that will be used on the front edge of the shelves. Refer to Cell D57 (Cell D47 Frameless)
How to Design Cabinet with Kick Plates
Kickplate
- This kickplate is only applicable if your base selection in Cell L45 is set to "NO BASE". Refer to Cell D58 (Cell D57 Frameless)
Hang Rails (install inside back panel)
- Select FLUSH OUTSIDE if you want the kickplate to be flush with the outside surface of the side panels. Refer to Cell L55
Hang Rails (install behind back panel)
Hang Rails (install behind back panel)
- If you selected "FLUSH INSIDE" in Cell L58, this calculation is measured from the bottom of the side panels to the lower surface of the bottom panel. Refer to Cell E58
Adjusting the Cabinet Kick Space
Height Of Kick Space
- Enter the desired height of the kick-space under the face frame. This is the amount of clearance between the floor where the cabinet is installed to the bottom rail of the face frame. Refer to Cell N45 (Cell N41 Frameless)
Depth of Kick Space
- Enter the desired depth of the kick-space on the left side of the cabinet. This is the distance from the outer surface of the left side panel to the pedestal base. Refer to Cell N46 (Cell N42 Frameless)
Kick Space on Sides of Cabinet
Kick Space on Sides of Cabinet
- Enter the desired depth of the kick-space on the left side of the cabinet. This is the distance from the outer surface of the left side panel to the pedestal base. Refer to Cell N47 (Cell N43 Frameless)
Installing Cabinet Hang Rails & Countertop Cleats
Hang Rails
- Select INSTALL INSIDE if the hang rail will be installed inside the cabinet on the front face of the back panel. Refer to Cell L55
Hang Rails - installed inside of back panel
- Select INSTALL INSIDE if the hang rail will be installed inside the cabinet on the front face of the back panel. Refer to Cell L55
Hang Rails - installed behind back panel
- Select INSTALL OUTSIDE if the hang rail will be installed on the back of the cabinet behind the back panel. Refer to Cell L55
Countertop Cleats installed laterally
- This setting enables you to install countertop mounting cleats either laterally (positioned across the width of the cabinet) or fore & aft (positioned from front to back of cabinet).
- Select LATERAL MOUNT if you want the cleat to extend the full width of the inside cabinet opening. Refer to Cell L56
Countertop Cleats installed fore and aft
- Select FORE & AFT MOUNT if you want the cleat to extend from the front to the back of the cabinet. NOTE: if a hang rail is installed along the top back edge of the cabinet, the length of the countertop mounting cleat will be shortened by the thickness of the hang rail. In other words, the hang rail will be installed behind the cleat. Refer to Cell L56
Upper Rear Stretcher Rail
- This is a rear stretcher rail that spans between the side panels along the upper back edge of the cabinet. It is used only to accommodate "BASE CABINETS" where you have selected the back panel to be "DADO TOP & BOTTOM" or "RABBET TOP & BOTTOM". This rail will be dadoed or rabbetted to accept the back panel. Cell D59 (Cell C35 Frameless)